Exploring Coastal Rowing in East Neuk: An Exciting Adventure

Immersed in frigid waters off Elie beach, I find myself grasping the side of a 22ft rowing skiff. What have I signed up for? Here in East Neuk of Fife, coastal rowing is an accessible adventure, even for beginners, and it’s offered at no cost.

This exhilarating opportunity is provided by Elie and Earlsferry Sailing Club, which hosts free taster sessions for anyone seeking adventure. Nearby, St Ayles Rowing Club in Anstruther offers similar experiences. My suggestion? Head to the East Neuk. Forget about mindfulness — there’s nothing quite as freeing as this.

Under the attentive guidance of the cox, I brace my feet against the footboard, synchronizing my oar strokes with those of my three companions. Time seems to vanish. It’s meditative, tiring, and incredibly thrilling, gliding through the waves like a kittiwake soaring overhead.

We row beyond the safety of Elie harbour towards the imposing East Vows rocks and its beacon, constructed in 1847 as a sanctuary for shipwrecked sailors. We maintain a safe distance from its gothic metal structure with a cross perched on top. As I catch my breath, waves of joy wash over me. After a brief pause, we turn the skiff around and head back to shore. It’s hard to believe we’ve been out for an hour.

After stowing the Sea Queen next to Archie, a skiff named after a former club member, we make our way to our seaside accommodation in Anstruther. Aptly named Sea Breeze — reflecting the morning’s adventure — this two-bedroom ground-floor apartment is adorned with mid-century pieces and nautical-themed decor, including prints of puffins, seagull cushions, and illuminated lighthouses. With East Sand beach just steps away and gulls calling from nearby rooftops, being by the sea feels wonderful.

With the North Sea now a part of my experience, I stroll down Whale Close to the Scottish Fisheries Museum. From traditional gansey jumpers to full-sized boats, fishing gear, and evocative photos, it’s a treasure trove that highlights East Neuk’s maritime heritage. The museum played a key role in the resurgence of coastal rowing, hosting a boat-building workshop in 2009 that eventually led to sailing St Ayles skiffs around the globe.

Head curator Linda Fitzpatrick shares her view that fishing boats are akin to family members. “The active transfer of skills is essential to our mission. We can preserve objects, but if we don’t preserve the knowledge of how to use and maintain them, we only share part of the story,” she points out. The museum has two seaworthy boats maintained by dedicated volunteers.

Later in the day, I wander past Anstruther’s charming pastel-colored homes and its beach adorned with seaweed, heading to meet Babs Elliot, the chair of St Ayles Rowing Club. Some regular rowers are busy in a workshop, preparing to repaint a skiff named St Ayles, currently upside down. Elliot recounts her immediate passion for coastal rowing upon first seeing the skiff, a love she has since embraced wholeheartedly.

The club manages three skiffs — Chris O’Kanaird, St Ayles, and Coull D — all closely linked to the local community. As Elliot explains, “They are precious to us. The community builds them, and they become part of that community, which is why we care for them.”” The club boasts around 60 members, with a core group of resilient rowers who brave the elements. Elliot adds, “We row year-round when conditions allow. Just the other night, dolphins swam alongside us, which was truly enchanting.””

Club member Elsie Johnstone humorously remarks, “I never thought of myself as competitive until I got into a boat. It’s just pure fun and great exercise. Experiencing your town from the water’s perspective and along the coastline is simply breathtaking.””

I bid farewell to the rowers and take a pleasant stroll along a section of the Fife Coastal Path. The prospect of a fish and chip dinner calls to me; however, with the Skiff World Championships approaching in Stranraer this July, who knows what adventures await?