Instead, I’m focusing on those subtle yet impactful boosts of confidence we all crave. When it’s time to embrace our inner strength and exude a commanding presence, the right accessories can make all the difference.

Typically, I prefer sleek, elevated stilettos for my ensemble. However, for a more assertive posture, a sturdier heel is essential. I’ve previously praised the Saint Laurent Bianca platforms, which are unparalleled in quality. Opt for them in white for an impressive look, and avoid competitor brands that feature a straight-across ankle strap; those are undeniably unflattering. For added coverage, consider the Alexander McQueen hoof boot. The initial appearance may be surprising, but once you try them on, you’ll feel a remarkable sense of confidence.

Your handbag should undoubtedly be large and commanding, conveying a message of preparedness and capability. It signals: “I’m equipped with tools that could change the world; I’ve attended an inspiring conference; or perhaps I’m ready to provide stickers or snacks for kids.” To achieve this air of authority, the contents of your bag should reflect a whimsical, resourceful spirit. Favorites include The Row’s charming, logo-free Margaux and the newly released suede Chloé Camera Bag.

When it comes to jewelry, your selection should also carry weight. If it’s lighter than a meerkat, it’s not making the cut. Opt for bold gold pieces that channel strength rather than fragility, steering clear of diamonds — they’re less desirable right now. Check out Pragnell for customizable solid gold cuffs, and don’t overlook Burberry’s jewelry selection, particularly their necklaces and bracelets.

One standout piece is a necklace priced at £2,190, which has a substantial weight reminiscent of my kitchen. It pairs beautifully with a simple white shirt or a sleek black top. Appropriately named the Spear, this necklace is perfect for moments when you need to assert yourself, be it through ending a relationship or addressing a friend’s behavior. For an added dose of fortitude, consider wearing it alongside the Shield bracelet. With these pieces, you can confidently move forward.

£2,190, burberry.com

However, a visit to Kyoto introduced me to the intricate world of Kaikado.

Although the name Kaikado may be unfamiliar to many in Britain, this esteemed Japanese brand has been crafting tin-lined tea caddies, known as chazutsu, for an impressive 150 years. The brand’s international recognition began two decades ago when Tim D’Offay, owner of the renowned Mayfair tea shop Postcard Teas, showcased these exquisite caddies in London for the very first time.

Takahiro Yagi, the current sixth-generation owner of Kaikado, recalls that pivotal London trip fondly. At just 30 years old, this was not only his first expedition outside Japan but also a significant moment for his family business established in 1875, marking the first time they presented their craftsmanship to the Western audience.

Yagi reflects on how momentous this undertaking was. With a small team of just five artisans capable of producing about ten caddies per day, the company faced financial constraints regarding travel. However, recognizing the UK’s significance as a major tea market after China and Taiwan, Yagi took a leap of faith, securing an affordable plane ticket with D’Offay’s gracious offer of hospitality during his stay.

Fast forward two decades, and Kaikado has not only flourished but has also expanded its influence significantly. In 2014, their meticulously crafted tea caddies became part of the permanent collection at the Victoria and Albert Museum, and later, exhibitions followed at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris and the Design Museum of Denmark. Each year, the talented artisans represent their craft at prestigious fairs like Maison & Objet and Salone del Mobile. The tea caddies are now featured in the offices of luxury brands like Loewe and Hermes, and they are available for purchase in 15 countries globally.

This month marks a special occasion as Kaikado celebrates its 150th anniversary with the release of a book by enthusiast Ted Gushue, published by ERG Media. The book delves into the rich history of Japan’s oldest caddy maker and recounts unique anecdotes, including a wartime episode where the owner buried his tools to prevent them from being repurposed for military efforts. Gushue also highlights the deep-rooted belief among many artisans that each handmade item embodies the character of its creator, offering a distinctiveness that mass-produced items lack. Gushue emphasizes Yagi’s appreciation for the term “mono-gara,” referring to the inherent quality found in people and objects alike. Just like individuals have distinct personalities, so too do these handcrafted pieces.

Having spent countless delightful hours in Kaikado’s Kyoto store, I can affirm that while their caddies may appear similar, each one is a unique creation, crafted through approximately 130 intricate processes. One of the most challenging tasks—mastered over eight to ten years by apprentices—involves ensuring that the lid fits seamlessly, allowing no air to enter. Yagi demonstrates how a well-crafted lid should slide on with ease, reflecting the joy of craftsmanship.

In addition to their caddies, the Yagi family has recently opened a café adjacent to their workshop. Here, visitors can explore Kaikado’s stunning caddies, engage with traditional Japanese crafts, and enjoy hand-made coffee. Yagi recognizes that many young people may not be initially drawn to craftsmanship, but through the simple pleasure of enjoying coffee from beautifully made cups, they can unknowingly develop an appreciation for artisanal quality.

Each morning, I relish the moment I lift the snug lid of my brass Kaikado caddy to prepare my tea. Regardless of how long it’s been stored, the tea remains perfectly dry and aromatic. Using a matching brass spoon, personalized with my name in Japanese, I am transported back to that Kyoto shop, feeling the resonance of craftsmanship and the warmth of human connection. This experience inspires dreams of expanding my collection—perhaps to include caddies for coffee, sugar, and flour. Kaikado’s offerings, now including spaghetti tins and a Danish-designed teapot, might just entice another visit to Kyoto in the near future…

Yet, a question arises: how do influential beauty brands maintain the potency of the active ingredients in their products? Beyond offering visually appealing packaging and luxury bottles, many brands seem to lack innovative solutions. Noble Panacea distinguishes itself in this aspect.

Established in 2019, the esteemed skincare brand Noble Panacea was founded by the late Sir Fraser Stoddart, a chemist celebrated for his groundbreaking work, which earned him numerous prestigious honors, including a knighthood from Queen Elizabeth II in 2006 and the Nobel Prize in Chemistry in 2016. Sir Fraser’s legacy remains unparalleled within the skincare industry.

Through over 40 years of research and extensive experimentation, Stoddart and his team developed a technology that engineers molecular structures within skincare products for enhanced delivery of active ingredients. This innovation led to the creation of the Organic Super Molecular Vessels (OSMV), a proprietary system unique to Noble Panacea.

At its core, OSMV technology comprises a shell made from biodegradable and renewable carbohydrates along with fatty acids, which encase active ingredients to shield them from oxidation and environmental damage—factors that can diminish their effectiveness.

While the OSMVs themselves are invisible (being 10,000 times smaller than a skin cell), their advanced chemistry preserves the integrity of ingredients at a molecular level. This crucial step ensures that the ingredients remain fresh and effective, preventing any adverse interactions.

Notably, OSMVs can be programmed to release ingredients in a controlled manner, allowing for a sustained delivery of active compounds tailored to the skincare profile and desired benefits.

The brand emphasizes, “Similar to pharmaceuticals, skincare has a therapeutic window where a consistent and precise dosage is critical for maximum effectiveness. An overly high dosage can irritate the skin, while insufficient levels may lack efficacy.” This understanding highlights a significant distinction from typical skincare products that are absorbed quickly, often failing to consider the skin’s therapeutic needs.

Noble Panacea products are engineered to release their benefits over time, particularly during times when the skin is most responsive to treatment, making it especially advantageous for nighttime regimens.

One of the standout innovations from Noble Panacea is The Overnight Chronobiology Peel, an advanced leave-on treatment featuring the OSMV technology. This product claims to enhance the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, dark spots, enlarged pores, and uneven skin tone through deep exfoliation. It is noteworthy as one of the few chemical peels scientifically aligned with the natural biorhythms of the skin.

The Overnight Peel is structured to deliver a micro-dose of active ingredients over eight hours, with releases tailored to align with distinct sleep cycles. For instance, the initial phase (spanning from 11 PM to 4 AM), coinciding with cellular renewal, involves a controlled release of complex AHAs and BHAs aimed at removing dead skin cells and promoting exfoliation.

In the subsequent phase, after five hours of application, the skin is at its peak absorption, allowing the product to provide a soothing blend that includes Gotu Kola. Unlike other chemical peels, this treatment does not require a neutralising agent post-application, and it demands no downtime the next day. Just once a week is sufficient to witness noticeable improvements.

While many luxury skincare lines boast about their potent active ingredients, Noble Panacea’s distinctiveness lies in its innovative delivery system for these ingredients. The brand asserts, “We do not subscribe to myths or exaggerated claims,” opting instead for dermatologist and ophthalmologist approved formulations rooted in molecular chemistry. Welcome to the new frontier of scientifically validated skincare.

For a smooth journey to Europe, make sure your passport is issued within the last ten years and has at least three months of validity remaining beyond your planned stay. The sole exception to these rules is for travel to Ireland, which is part of the Common Travel Area with the UK.

These passport regulations also extend to four non-EU countries: Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway, and Switzerland, all of which, along with most EU nations, form the Schengen Area. The Schengen Area allows free movement between its member countries and recognizes the same passport validity criteria.

If you are planning a visit to an EU country or any of the four non-EU nations mentioned, here’s what you need to know.

Understanding the Ten-Year Passport Rule

The ten-year passport rule mandates that travelers from non-EU countries (including the UK) must possess a passport that is less than ten years old upon entry into an EU member state and must be valid for at least three months beyond their departure date. Since Brexit, this regulation now applies to British passport holders.

Previously, the UK Passport Office allowed a grace period where up to nine months of remaining validity on an old passport could be transferred to a new one. However, this extension is no longer recognized by EU countries, necessitating that passports be under ten years old.

The exception remains for travel to Ireland, where different rules apply due to the Common Travel Area arrangement.

Considerations for Stopovers

If your trip involves multiple destinations, ensure your passport and travel documents meet the requirements for each stop. For instance, if you are en route to a destination that has strict passport validity rules and your itinerary includes an EU stopover, verify that your passport complies with the respective regulations. Always consult your travel provider if you have any questions.

Required Documents for UK Travelers

To travel outside the UK, a valid passport is a must. For visits to EU countries and European Free Trade Association (EFTA) nations (Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway, and Switzerland), your passport must be issued less than ten years before your entry and should have a minimum of three months’ validity after your planned departure.

When traveling to Ireland, British citizens can technically enter with other forms of official photo ID, though a passport is typically required by airlines.

Depending on your travel destination, duration, and purpose, a visa may be necessary. Post-Brexit, British citizens can remain in the Schengen Area for up to 90 days within a 180-day period for tourism; beyond that, a visa or permit may be needed. Check the entry requirements for each country you intend to visit. Starting from late 2026, you will also need to apply for an Etias visa waiver prior to your travel.

If you plan on driving or renting a vehicle abroad, ensure you have your driving license and potentially an international driving permit (IDP). If you’re taking your own vehicle, you will need relevant insurance, registration details, and a visible UK sticker. Additional requirements may vary by destination.

While travelling within the EU, consider obtaining a UK Global Health Insurance Card (GHIC), which provides access to necessary public health services that may be free or partially subsidized. Carrying the GHIC may also be required to ensure your travel insurance remains valid.

Can You Travel Without a Passport from the UK?

Generally, a passport is mandatory for travel to Europe, with Ireland being the only exception. However, travelers are advised to carry their passport, as airlines usually require it.

Lost Passport While Traveling

If you misplace your passport abroad, applying for an emergency travel document may be possible. These documents cost £125, and you may need to visit a British embassy in person after submitting your application online. This emergency document will include your travel itinerary, and if plans change, you may incur additional fees for a new document.

Damaged Passport

A damaged passport should be replaced before you travel, as it may not be accepted for travel. The HM Passport Office classifies a passport as damaged if any information is illegible, if there are any rips, cuts, holes (including in the cover), missing pages, or water damage.

Traveling with an Expired Passport in Europe

While theoretically possible to travel with an expired passport between select European countries due to open land borders in the Schengen Area, some countries like Spain have specific conditions. A valid travel document is required for exit at external borders, including when leaving the UK, where passport checks are enforced.

Passport Validity Requirements for Travel to Spain

For Spain, British passport holders need to ensure their documents have at least three months of validity remaining upon departure, along with being issued within the last ten years.

• Check our detailed guide to Spain

Passport Validity Requirements for Travel to Greece

Travelers heading to Greece must adhere to standard EU passport validity guidelines, meaning the passport must be less than ten years old on entry and have at least three months’ validity left after leaving.

• Explore our comprehensive guide to Greece

Passport Validity Requirements for Travel to Portugal

Portugal follows the EU passport validity rules, necessitating that passports be less than ten years old upon entry and possess at least three months of validity beyond the planned departure date.

• Discover our thorough guide to Portugal

Passport Validity Requirements for Travel to the US

To enter the United States, your passport must be valid for the duration of your stay, and an ESTA or visa is required for entry.

• Read our in-depth guide to the US

Passport Validity Requirements for Travel to Turkey

When traveling to Turkey, UK passport holders need to have at least 150 days of validity remaining after their arrival and a blank page for entry and exit stamps.

This exhilarating opportunity is provided by Elie and Earlsferry Sailing Club, which hosts free taster sessions for anyone seeking adventure. Nearby, St Ayles Rowing Club in Anstruther offers similar experiences. My suggestion? Head to the East Neuk. Forget about mindfulness — there’s nothing quite as freeing as this.

Under the attentive guidance of the cox, I brace my feet against the footboard, synchronizing my oar strokes with those of my three companions. Time seems to vanish. It’s meditative, tiring, and incredibly thrilling, gliding through the waves like a kittiwake soaring overhead.

We row beyond the safety of Elie harbour towards the imposing East Vows rocks and its beacon, constructed in 1847 as a sanctuary for shipwrecked sailors. We maintain a safe distance from its gothic metal structure with a cross perched on top. As I catch my breath, waves of joy wash over me. After a brief pause, we turn the skiff around and head back to shore. It’s hard to believe we’ve been out for an hour.

After stowing the Sea Queen next to Archie, a skiff named after a former club member, we make our way to our seaside accommodation in Anstruther. Aptly named Sea Breeze — reflecting the morning’s adventure — this two-bedroom ground-floor apartment is adorned with mid-century pieces and nautical-themed decor, including prints of puffins, seagull cushions, and illuminated lighthouses. With East Sand beach just steps away and gulls calling from nearby rooftops, being by the sea feels wonderful.

With the North Sea now a part of my experience, I stroll down Whale Close to the Scottish Fisheries Museum. From traditional gansey jumpers to full-sized boats, fishing gear, and evocative photos, it’s a treasure trove that highlights East Neuk’s maritime heritage. The museum played a key role in the resurgence of coastal rowing, hosting a boat-building workshop in 2009 that eventually led to sailing St Ayles skiffs around the globe.

Head curator Linda Fitzpatrick shares her view that fishing boats are akin to family members. “The active transfer of skills is essential to our mission. We can preserve objects, but if we don’t preserve the knowledge of how to use and maintain them, we only share part of the story,” she points out. The museum has two seaworthy boats maintained by dedicated volunteers.

Later in the day, I wander past Anstruther’s charming pastel-colored homes and its beach adorned with seaweed, heading to meet Babs Elliot, the chair of St Ayles Rowing Club. Some regular rowers are busy in a workshop, preparing to repaint a skiff named St Ayles, currently upside down. Elliot recounts her immediate passion for coastal rowing upon first seeing the skiff, a love she has since embraced wholeheartedly.

The club manages three skiffs — Chris O’Kanaird, St Ayles, and Coull D — all closely linked to the local community. As Elliot explains, “They are precious to us. The community builds them, and they become part of that community, which is why we care for them.”” The club boasts around 60 members, with a core group of resilient rowers who brave the elements. Elliot adds, “We row year-round when conditions allow. Just the other night, dolphins swam alongside us, which was truly enchanting.””

Club member Elsie Johnstone humorously remarks, “I never thought of myself as competitive until I got into a boat. It’s just pure fun and great exercise. Experiencing your town from the water’s perspective and along the coastline is simply breathtaking.””

I bid farewell to the rowers and take a pleasant stroll along a section of the Fife Coastal Path. The prospect of a fish and chip dinner calls to me; however, with the Skiff World Championships approaching in Stranraer this July, who knows what adventures await?

1. Can Quince de Balafia, Sant Llorenc de Balafia

Experience rustic charm and tranquility at Can Quince, nestled in the heart of Balafia, a historic hamlet dating back to the 14th century. This serene agriturismo features six uniquely rustic rooms set amid lush gardens and includes private terraces, a swimming pool, and locally sourced breakfasts. Guests can engage in pop-up workshops, while scenic walks through citrus orchards and breathtaking island views beckon outside.

2. Can Domo, Santa Eularia des Riu

Set in a picturesque area characterized by traditional 17th-century architecture, Can Domo stands out for its exceptional culinary offerings. Helmed by Michelin-starred chefs Javier Sanz and Juan Sahuquillo, the restaurant features ingredients from the hotel’s organic orchard and on-site garden, combined with wild meats and fresh seafood.

3. TRS Ibiza, San Antonio

This adults-only retreat on Ibiza’s west coast boasts airy interiors and eclectic artwork, alongside a rooftop infinity pool offering stunning sunset views. Located near sandy coves and San Antonio, TRS Ibiza combines five-star amenities with an all-inclusive experience featuring swim-up suites, expansive pools, and an array of dining options, including Argentine cuisine and international dishes.

4. Six Senses Ibiza, San Juan

This bohemian-luxury resort seamlessly integrates into the pine-clad hillside of northern Ibiza. Guests can enjoy breathtaking ocean views from the infinity pool, benefit from high-tech spa treatments, and indulge in diverse dining options ranging from Middle Eastern dishes to sushi. The resort’s design maintains an earthy retreat atmosphere, featuring natural materials and warm hues.

5. Aguas de Ibiza, Santa Eulalia

This eco-friendly boutique hotel features panoramic views from its adults-only rooftop infinity pool and offers a peaceful atmosphere along with a vast spa. The Mediterranean-inspired restaurant serves dishes created by a celebrated Peruvian chef, while stylishly designed rooms reflect a harmonious blend of comfort and sustainability.

6. Mongibello Ibiza, Santa Eulalia

Embracing the vibrant spirit of 1960s Ibiza, Mongibello captures the nostalgic essence of the island while offering chic amenities. Guests can enjoy colorful designs and a relaxed vibe just steps from the beach, alongside an eclectic mix of dining and cocktail spots that celebrate the island’s famous nightlife.

7. The Standard, Ibiza Town

This stylish boutique hotel, converted from a former cinema, blends luxury with local tradition in its uniquely designed rooms. The highlight is the vibrant rooftop area featuring an infinity pool and bar, perfect for enjoying views of the historic Dalt Vila fortress, complemented by innovative dining options.

8. Hotel MiM, Ibiza Town

This adults-only retreat near Playa d’en Bossa boasts art deco aesthetics and stunning grounds. Guests can relax at the pool, indulge in wellness services, and dine at a Mediterranean restaurant featuring fresh and flavorful dishes in a stylish setting.

9. Ushuaia Ibiza Beach Hotel, Playa d’en Bossa

Ushuaia merges hotel accommodations with an exciting nightlife experience. This visually striking property hosts lively day parties, various dining options, and numerous bars, catering to those seeking both relaxation and excitement in Playa d’en Bossa.

10. Bless Hotel, Cala Nova

Bless Hotel skillfully combines classic elegance with contemporary luxury. Boasting sea views and extravagant amenities, it offers guests a spa experience, spacious pools, and top-notch dining overseen by a Michelin-starred chef.

11. Agroturismo Atzaro, near San Juan

Set in the lush countryside, Agroturismo Atzaro features a historic farmhouse amidst rolling hills. This luxurious retreat offers numerous amenities, including spacious accommodations, a spa in surrounding gardens, and wellness programming amidst nature.

12. Ca Na Xica, San Miguel

Ballanced in nature, this rural refuge offers beautifully crafted accommodations made by local artisans. Guests enjoy stunning landscapes, soothing spa treatments, and a restaurant serving exquisite Mediterranean cuisine with picturesque views.

13. Ocean Drive Talamanca, Talamanca

Located near Ibiza Town, Ocean Drive Talamanca offers a stunning bay view and a split-level pool. With various accommodation options, guests can revel in luxury while enjoying gourmet dining experiences and refreshing cocktails.

14. OKU Ibiza, Cala Gracio

OKU Ibiza features a design that showcases natural materials, creating a tranquil atmosphere. With two pools, luxurious rooms, and wellness amenities, it offers a perfect blend of relaxation, nature, and vibrant nightlife with its in-house DJ.

15. Hotel Rural Xereca, Puig d’en Valls

Located just outside Ibiza Town, this elegantly remodeled agriturismo showcases traditional architecture. Featuring a serene infinity pool and lush gardens, guests can enjoy organic dining while taking in the beautiful surroundings.

16. 7Pines Resort Ibiza, San Agustin

This luxury all-suite resort resembles a quaint village in the pine-laden cliffs of Ibiza. Overlooking the beautiful coves, guests can relax by the infinity pool, indulge in spa treatments, and enjoy diverse culinary offerings at the signature restaurant.

17. Pikes Ibiza, San Antonio

Pikes Ibiza is a legendary hotel known for its rock ‘n’ roll history, having hosted various stars over the decades. Featuring 26 unique rooms, a famous pool, and vibrant nightlife, it encapsulates the carefree spirit of Ibiza.

18. Pure House Ibiza, near Ibiza Town

Pure House Ibiza embodies bohemian chic in a stunning 19th-century estate set amidst lush groves. Offering serene gardens and wellness activities, it is a perfect base for exploring the vibrant island while providing peaceful retreat spaces for relaxation and rejuvenation.

Additional reporting by Lucy Perrin and Jo Davey

This weekend, tensions have intensified, with both Israel and Iran exchanging fire. Over Saturday and Sunday, Iran launched missiles and drones targeting Israel, prompting retaliatory strikes by the Israel Defence Forces on Iranian sites, including military and nuclear facilities. Both nations have indicated that their military actions will persist, raising concerns of a prolonged conflict.

On the morning of June 16, the Israeli government confirmed that a missile had been fired from Yemen into Israeli territory.

Currently, Israel is under a state of emergency with residents urged to remain near bomb shelters. Reports indicate widespread power outages and fires, with numerous buildings sustaining damage. An estimated 40,000 tourists find themselves stranded in Israel as the UK government prepares contingency plans for evacuating its citizens, given that flight routes and land borders have been closed. The Foreign Office has advised British nationals in Israel to register their whereabouts. Here’s an overview of the current situation.

Updated Government Stance on Travel to Israel

The circumstances in the Middle East are evolving rapidly. As of June 15, the UK Foreign Office has raised its travel advisory to “red,” discouraging all travel to Israel and the occupied Palestinian territories. Travelling against this guidance can lead to the invalidation of your travel insurance.

The airspace over Israel is currently closed, and flights from the UK to Tel Aviv or Jerusalem are suspended.

The Foreign Office has emphasized: “The situation has the potential to escalate rapidly, presenting significant risks, including missile strikes. For the latest information, consult the Home Front Command (accessible in Israel only) and adhere to instructions from the Israeli authorities.”

“Restrictions may be implemented with little notice. If you are located in the occupied Palestinian territories (OPTs) and lack access to Home Front Command resources, follow local instructions, including those from the Palestinian Civil Defence (dial 102 or visit www.pcd.ps or check their Facebook page).”

“Be cautious of falling debris from intercepted missiles over Israel and the OPTs. If you come across any remnants, vacate the area immediately and inform local officials.”

If you are currently in Israel, stay updated through local news and follow guidance on the Israeli Home Front Command website; assistance can also be obtained by calling 104 (this service is limited to individuals in Israel). People in the UK worried about relatives in the region can reach out to the Foreign Office at +44 (0) 207 008 5000.

On June 16, the Foreign Office urged British nationals still in Israel or the OPTs to register their presence.

Safety Considerations for Travel to Jerusalem and Tel Aviv

Traveling against the advice of the Foreign Office typically results in immediate invalidation of standard travel insurance, which may complicate any consular assistance needed while on the ground.

If you had plans to visit Israel, contact your airline or travel agency. Many trips are likely to have already been cancelled, entitling you to a full refund. Your travel insurance may also assist with any incurred expenses.

“I used to be a smuggler,” he shares, “and I will teach you how to be one too.”

We are in Gorizia, a quaint town near Trieste in northeastern Italy; moments later, we stroll across a street and unknowingly step into Nova Gorica in Slovenia, crossing an invisible border. This year, both towns share the title of European Capital of Culture, marking the first time a cross-border duo has been honored.

Nova Gorica, meaning “New Gorizia” in Slovenian, only emerged as a distinct town after 1947. Following World War II, the Allied Powers dispatched a committee to the lush region between the Karst plateau, the Alps, and the Adriatic Sea, tasked with determining the border between what was then Yugoslavia and Italy.

“The border was drawn with a ruler and pencil on a map,” recalls local historian Alessandro Cattunar over coffee in the station café. “It cut across farmers’ homes, schools, and even split a cemetery in two.” This arbitrary division forced families to choose their national allegiance, a decision that would have profound implications for generations.

The new border left much of Gorizia’s agricultural land and suburbs under Yugoslav control while the urban center remained in Italy, leading to a disparity in product availability and access to different global markets, inadvertently fostering a flourishing smuggling trade. People from all walks of life were involved: young or old, Italian or Yugoslav, wealthy or poor.

Today, both towns approach their smuggling history with a sense of humor. Visitors can embark on smuggling-themed tours, explore two small museums dedicated to smuggling and life during the Cold War—Prepustnica in Slovenia and Lasciapassare in Italy—and even participate in a smuggling-inspired escape room experience.

It seems that nearly everyone in Gorizia has a smuggling story. Coffee was a particularly sought-after commodity for Yugoslavs, with various items traded for it. Peric recounts how his mother would hide three kilograms of coffee in the back seat, urging her children to pretend they were asleep to evade customs inspection. Evelin Bizjak, another Slovenian guide, tells of a time her father’s broken-down car was miraculously fixed in hours after a bag of coffee was involved in the negotiations.

On our tour, we get a taste of smuggling ourselves. Given a copy of an old Playboy magazine to smuggle back to Yugoslavia, I feel a mix of nerves and excitement as I face a faux border guard, while a carefree American child in the group hides cash up his sleeves.

The customs officer inspects the person before me, skeptical of their loose-fitting jeans: “Suspicious. Roll up your trouser leg!” This nods towards the past obsession with brand-name Levi’s jeans, where creative methods were employed to smuggle pairs across the border.

Fortunately, my innocent demeanor convinces the guard, and I successfully smuggle the magazine through. The family-friendly two-hour tour offers a blend of fun and history, with adults and children engaging enthusiastically (adults £29, children £13). But historian Cattunar warns that beneath the playful facade of smuggling lie the darker aspects of history, including the violence under fascism and the foibe massacres, shedding light on how smuggling helped unite communities despite such tragedies.

Cattunar explains that this year’s Capital of Culture title has rekindled dialogue and cultural exchange between Gorizia and Nova Gorica. “We’ve realized it’s beneficial to embrace our mixed community, living on the border of different cultures and languages,” he comments. “We should highlight more than just the negatives of nationalism; we can also serve as a model for international relations.”

The abrupt separation of the communities in 1947 only served to further entrench political and cultural disparities. Prior to the war, there had been a level of linguistic fluidity, with Slovenians speaking Italian and vice versa. Nova Gorica, constructed as a new town, showcases stark architectural differences from Gorizia’s charming ochre buildings and cobbled streets, compared to Nova Gorica’s plain, Soviet-influenced layout. Locals now cross into each other’s towns freely, often seeking out better-priced goods.

Interesting, then, is the news that in mid-2024, as the towns launched their “GO! Borderless” initiative for the Capital of Culture, the Italian government implemented random border checks claiming it was to prevent terrorism and control unauthorized migration entering Europe through the Balkans. During our tour, we spot police monitoring vehicles at the border.

Remnants of war still haunt this landscape: World War II bomb fragments are often discovered in the nearby fields, and the prominent Sabatino hill overlooks Nova Gorica, featuring a Cold War-era sign reading TITO in bold letters. In 1917, Rudyard Kipling described the area, painting it as serene under a spectrum of colors, while today, Gorizia comes alive in spring with blooming cherry blossoms as the Isonzo river rushes through the fields, its waters vibrant with life.

For those following Kipling’s footsteps, La Casa di Kipling offers a beautifully appointed apartment just a stroll from Gorizia’s center, complete with thoughtful amenities like make-up remover and toothbrushes. Owner Marilisa Bombi shares valuable local insights and can assist with arranging activities. Wine tastings in the nearby Collio region, famous for its unique terroir, are highly recommended.

The vineyards yield the floral and acidic Ribolla Gialla grape, celebrated for orange wines. At the Radikon family winery, owner Sasa graciously presents a selection of high-quality vintages in flawless English.

While Gorizia offers plenty for a long weekend stay, a day trip to Grado—a charming mini-Venice known for its lagoon—or outdoor adventures in Vipava Valley or kayaking in Solkan can greatly enhance the experience. The Kostanjevica Monastery, home to thousands of ancient texts and a beautiful rose garden with a view, is also worth a visit, as it serves as the resting place for the last members of France’s Bourbon royal family.

Recognized for symbolizing the end of the divide between East and West, Gorizia and Nova Gorica represent both European unity and its delicate nature, reminding us how quickly borders can return with a shift in political winds.

Yet, doing so may mean missing out on one of the most picturesque seafronts in southern France and one of the trendiest hotels to open in the past decade. Les Roches Rouges recently unveiled an £11 million expansion, extending to a hidden cove down the coast, and I had the opportunity to explore the latest enhancements last month.

The allure is immediate upon entering the hotel. A glass wall at the reception frames a panoramic view of the sea and sky. As you move towards the balcony, it becomes clear that you are not simply on the ground floor but rather perched atop the building, with three levels of guest rooms, a small spa, and an additional restaurant cascading down the cliffside. The white concrete structure juts boldly out towards the sparkling sea, and the waves crash almost beneath your feet.

According to Billy Skelli-Cohen, the CEO of the boutique hotel group Beaumier, this location began as a three-star establishment in the 1950s, and it had seen better days when they took over in 2018.

Beaumier doesn’t merely rebuild; they transform distinctive yet dated properties in exceptional settings, reviving their character in creative ways. This approach respects the building’s original essence, as seen in their preservation efforts in other locations, like the Grand Hotel Belvedere in Wengen, Switzerland, and La Moulin at Lourmarin in Provence.

With Les Roches Rouges, the intent is to showcase its mid-century concrete features rather than hide them, complemented by rich details such as a library filled with art books, butterfly chairs, and delightful cocktails that pop against the architectural backdrop.

The color palette is intentionally muted, featuring white walls, terracotta lamps, ochre rugs, and vibrant cadmium red art pieces. The design emphasizes the abundant natural light streaming through nearly every floor-to-ceiling window that gazes out to the sea.

Adding to the experience are two swimming pools and Michelin-star dining, with room rates starting at £338 per night, making Les Roches Rouges a favorite on many top hotel lists in the Côte d’Azur.

Beaumier has now embarked on an additional expansion, which includes a westward extension featuring a snack bar, a water sports launch area, a yoga studio, and a new annex that adds 25 bedrooms for a total of 67. This investment comes as property values soar in the region, but it significantly enhances the hotel’s offerings. Guests can now savor comfort and tranquility throughout this hidden cove at a time when coastal areas can become overly crowded.

The new rooms are as bright as the flavorful red tuna ceviche served at the main restaurant, Estelo. Designed by Atelier St Lazare, these spaces mirror the main structure’s aesthetic with polished concrete floors and carefully curated art. Their luxurious feel is enhanced by high-quality linens and signature toiletries, while the expansive windows let in even more spectacular sea and sunlight views. Leaving the windows open at night is tempting, with the soothing sounds of waves just outside.

Les Roches Rouges is also home to a new head chef at the top-floor gastronomic restaurant, Récif, who brings expertise from a Michelin-starred restaurant in the Swiss Alps. With a focus on seasonal ingredients, the chef creatively plays with flavors, offering unique dishes that change daily through partnerships with local fishermen.

Once guests receive their electronic wristband room keys, many tend to remain within the hotel grounds until check-out, especially couples from London and the U.S. enjoying their honeymoon or empty nesters relishing their newfound freedom. Most can be seen lounging by the pools with cocktails and a good book, while others take the plunge into the Mediterranean from the hotel’s jetty.

This reluctance to explore the surrounding area is understandable—the hotel provides an idyllic seaside setting. However, just a short distance away, Mother Nature awaits with her own surprises. A visit to Cap Dramont reveals breathtaking landscapes where the rugged Massif de l’Esterel meets the sea, with overgrown trails leading into scenic wilderness. This area serves as a refreshing reminder that the Riviera can offer a more authentic and vibrant experience, far from the clichés of glitz and glamour.

Sean Newsom had the pleasure of experiencing the charm of Les Roches Rouges, a hotel that showcases the evolving luxury landscape of the Côte d’Azur.

New Developments in Southeast France

Les Roches Rouges is not the only noteworthy hotel in Provence and the Côte d’Azur focusing on its 20th-century architecture. In Nice, the 35-room Hotel Gounod has been transformed with an elegant boudoir style that matches its stunning art deco facade—a perfect stop for those visiting the Matisse Museum this summer, which features a notable exhibition showcasing works from MoMA and the Pompidou.

In the scenic hills near St. Raphaël, two charming 19th-century venues have emerged as stylish B&Bs: Le Gabriel, a former coaching inn with a lively, artsy design, and the newly opened Château Pimo, which offers five suites and its own spa amidst a more subdued color palette, close to the spectacular Gorges du Verdon canyon.

Further to the west, Aix-en-Provence continues to captivate with its rich history and vibrant atmosphere. This year, the city celebrates Cezanne with a major exhibition at the Musée Granet, alongside the reopening of his family residence. Visitors can also unwind at the gardens of the recently refurbished Hôtel Le Pigonnet.

Lastly, north of Aix lies the less touristy but equally delightful Carpentras, renowned for its bustling Friday market and beautiful hiking trails surrounded by vineyards—the perfect setting for travelers seeking both natural beauty and culinary delights.