Discovering the Stylish Allure of Côte d’Azur’s Les Roches Rouges

As you drive along the French Riviera, past towering hedges and electric gates, the hotel might speed by your window, reminiscent of a 1950s dental office. Located in St. Raphaël, nestled between St. Tropez and Cannes, this sleek, modernist structure may capture your eye, but it doesn’t mark a break from the encroaching development seen throughout the Côte d’Azur. However, this expansive modern facade belies the charm that lies within. A moment later, you could find yourself accelerating toward the luxury of Cap d’Antibes or the rugged beauty of the Massif de l’Esterel.

Yet, doing so may mean missing out on one of the most picturesque seafronts in southern France and one of the trendiest hotels to open in the past decade. Les Roches Rouges recently unveiled an £11 million expansion, extending to a hidden cove down the coast, and I had the opportunity to explore the latest enhancements last month.

The allure is immediate upon entering the hotel. A glass wall at the reception frames a panoramic view of the sea and sky. As you move towards the balcony, it becomes clear that you are not simply on the ground floor but rather perched atop the building, with three levels of guest rooms, a small spa, and an additional restaurant cascading down the cliffside. The white concrete structure juts boldly out towards the sparkling sea, and the waves crash almost beneath your feet.

According to Billy Skelli-Cohen, the CEO of the boutique hotel group Beaumier, this location began as a three-star establishment in the 1950s, and it had seen better days when they took over in 2018.

Beaumier doesn’t merely rebuild; they transform distinctive yet dated properties in exceptional settings, reviving their character in creative ways. This approach respects the building’s original essence, as seen in their preservation efforts in other locations, like the Grand Hotel Belvedere in Wengen, Switzerland, and La Moulin at Lourmarin in Provence.

With Les Roches Rouges, the intent is to showcase its mid-century concrete features rather than hide them, complemented by rich details such as a library filled with art books, butterfly chairs, and delightful cocktails that pop against the architectural backdrop.

The color palette is intentionally muted, featuring white walls, terracotta lamps, ochre rugs, and vibrant cadmium red art pieces. The design emphasizes the abundant natural light streaming through nearly every floor-to-ceiling window that gazes out to the sea.

Adding to the experience are two swimming pools and Michelin-star dining, with room rates starting at £338 per night, making Les Roches Rouges a favorite on many top hotel lists in the Côte d’Azur.

Beaumier has now embarked on an additional expansion, which includes a westward extension featuring a snack bar, a water sports launch area, a yoga studio, and a new annex that adds 25 bedrooms for a total of 67. This investment comes as property values soar in the region, but it significantly enhances the hotel’s offerings. Guests can now savor comfort and tranquility throughout this hidden cove at a time when coastal areas can become overly crowded.

The new rooms are as bright as the flavorful red tuna ceviche served at the main restaurant, Estelo. Designed by Atelier St Lazare, these spaces mirror the main structure’s aesthetic with polished concrete floors and carefully curated art. Their luxurious feel is enhanced by high-quality linens and signature toiletries, while the expansive windows let in even more spectacular sea and sunlight views. Leaving the windows open at night is tempting, with the soothing sounds of waves just outside.

Les Roches Rouges is also home to a new head chef at the top-floor gastronomic restaurant, Récif, who brings expertise from a Michelin-starred restaurant in the Swiss Alps. With a focus on seasonal ingredients, the chef creatively plays with flavors, offering unique dishes that change daily through partnerships with local fishermen.

Once guests receive their electronic wristband room keys, many tend to remain within the hotel grounds until check-out, especially couples from London and the U.S. enjoying their honeymoon or empty nesters relishing their newfound freedom. Most can be seen lounging by the pools with cocktails and a good book, while others take the plunge into the Mediterranean from the hotel’s jetty.

This reluctance to explore the surrounding area is understandable—the hotel provides an idyllic seaside setting. However, just a short distance away, Mother Nature awaits with her own surprises. A visit to Cap Dramont reveals breathtaking landscapes where the rugged Massif de l’Esterel meets the sea, with overgrown trails leading into scenic wilderness. This area serves as a refreshing reminder that the Riviera can offer a more authentic and vibrant experience, far from the clichés of glitz and glamour.

Sean Newsom had the pleasure of experiencing the charm of Les Roches Rouges, a hotel that showcases the evolving luxury landscape of the Côte d’Azur.

New Developments in Southeast France

Les Roches Rouges is not the only noteworthy hotel in Provence and the Côte d’Azur focusing on its 20th-century architecture. In Nice, the 35-room Hotel Gounod has been transformed with an elegant boudoir style that matches its stunning art deco facade—a perfect stop for those visiting the Matisse Museum this summer, which features a notable exhibition showcasing works from MoMA and the Pompidou.

In the scenic hills near St. Raphaël, two charming 19th-century venues have emerged as stylish B&Bs: Le Gabriel, a former coaching inn with a lively, artsy design, and the newly opened Château Pimo, which offers five suites and its own spa amidst a more subdued color palette, close to the spectacular Gorges du Verdon canyon.

Further to the west, Aix-en-Provence continues to captivate with its rich history and vibrant atmosphere. This year, the city celebrates Cezanne with a major exhibition at the Musée Granet, alongside the reopening of his family residence. Visitors can also unwind at the gardens of the recently refurbished Hôtel Le Pigonnet.

Lastly, north of Aix lies the less touristy but equally delightful Carpentras, renowned for its bustling Friday market and beautiful hiking trails surrounded by vineyards—the perfect setting for travelers seeking both natural beauty and culinary delights.